You can switch it off on an ad hoc basis by clicking the ¶ button or CTRL+*
You can ensure it stays off until you want it by adding the following
macros: These also cover some of the usual problems Word 2003 in particular
has with common preferences, but you can delete the extra lines if you want.

Sub AutoNew()
ActiveWindow.ActivePane.DisplayRulers = True
ActiveWindow.ActivePane.View.ShowAll = False
ActiveWindow.DisplayHorizontalScrollBar = True
ActiveWindow.DisplayVerticalScrollBar = True
With ActiveWindow.View
   .Type = wdPrintView
   '.Type = wdNormalView
   .Zoom.Percentage = 100
   .FieldShading = wdFieldShadingWhenSelected
   .ShowFieldCodes = False
   .DisplayPageBoundaries = True
End With
CommandBars("Reviewing").Visible = False
CommandBars("Drawing").Visible = False
CommandBars("Forms").Visible = False
End Sub

Sub AutoOpen()
ActiveWindow.Caption = ActiveDocument.FullName
ActiveWindow.ActivePane.DisplayRulers = True
ActiveWindow.ActivePane.View.ShowAll = False
ActiveWindow.DisplayHorizontalScrollBar = True
ActiveWindow.DisplayVerticalScrollBar = True
With ActiveWindow.View
   .Type = wdPrintView
   .Zoom.Percentage = 100
   .FieldShading = wdFieldShadingWhenSelected
   .ShowFieldCodes = False
   .DisplayPageBoundaries = True
End With
End Sub

Sub AutoExec()
CommandBars("Reviewing").Visible = False
CommandBars("Drawing").Visible = False
CommandBars("Forms").Visible = False
CommandBars("Mail Merge").Visible = False
Application.OnTime _
When:=Now + TimeValue("00:00:01"), Name:="CodesOff"
End Sub

Sub CodesOff()
On Error GoTo oops
ActiveWindow.ActivePane.View.ShowAll = False
oops:
End Sub

http://www.gmayor.com/installing_macro.htm

On the Tools menu, click Options. Click the View tab. Under
"Formatting marks", clear all options, including the one called "All".
Does this make a difference?